Archive for the ‘Friends & Neighbours’ Category

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Way down south

May 6, 2012

… From Kiev, that is – and Istanbul, as I always suspected, is just as glorious in May as Kiev is. It’s a different gloriousness – calmer, I think, less tragic (but tragedy is endemic to natives anyway – a foreign spring always feels gentler, it results in possibilities, as opposed to memories). Now I understand many of the things that Orhan Pamuk has written, I believe.

We’re in town for the 2012 TRT Documentary Awards. “Katya, Vitya, Dima” is in the international competition. It’s a very rare and wonderful experience, to have the lights go up, see the faces of the people, and realize that they have totally understood you.

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Poster for “Katya, Vitya, Dima”

April 18, 2012

As designed by the lovely Elena Shalkina, who is an artist and filmmaker here in Moscow.

The movie is up for an award in Istanbul next month – in the international category at the TRT Documentary Awards. Alexey and I are really excited to be included in this competition. We’re planning on being in Istanbul in the first week of May for the festival.

Annnnnnd here’s a two-in-one trailer that festival organizers have made available on YouTube:

You know, I’ve been trying really hard to find the right words as to how this movie should be described – and then someone at a party one night just said the following film: “It’s an art house flick – Rural Russia-style.” And that’s a very good – and succinct – way of saying what I’ve wanted to say about it for a while. There’s a tremendous amount of beauty and sadness portrayed here, in very unexpected ways, I would argue, and I’m happy and proud that I’ve been a part of this project (although to be perfectly honest, when my husband says, “We are so doing this” – it’s impossible to say no).

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Beautiful people: pretty pictures of women I’m related to, a.k.a. hipsters back in the USSR

April 8, 2012

I’ve been digging around my family history – the sad chapters of it, mostly. When you’re trying to understand some things about the present, the past can be a helpful place to start.

Then Yuri Nifatov, a family friend, contacted me and let me have a look at his archive. It features a lot of Crimea. Crimea remains a weird, magical place – no matter how many beer tents and high-rise hotels go up there.

My mother, Tatiana (right), and her twin sister Natalya, in Crimea in the 1970′s:

Lady of leisure (otherwise known as my mother):

My mother in Novy Svet, Crimea, the place that can change the trajectory of a person’s life, for better or for worse:

Yuri reads the ladiez a newspaper:

Hipsters are an ancient tradition. Here’s my aunt being one in the USSR:

She also wore ponchos (at least I think that’s a poncho):

And fished in the sea with Yuri (the Black Sea, to be precise. Please note the bathing suit):

When November came, she was known to pout:

But never for too long, because there were bikes to ride (actually, that’s her sister, my mom, riding the bike – but who cares, right?):

These pictures belong to Yuri, and I’m posting them here with his kind permission. If you know me well, you know I’m prone to Dramatic Speeches about my family history. This is the flip-side.

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Lisa Taddeo, cheating, power and sexy ladies!*

March 24, 2012

* – I mostly just threw in that last bit for the hysterical Google search terms that will show up in my stats. Maybe.

I have no idea who Lisa Taddeo is, first of all. The fact that I’m even blogging about her just shows you how derivative the Internet is. A friend sends a link of this Jezebel piece that’s skewering Taddeo’s Esquire piece - and I am right in that place where my stamina is too low for work and too high for just gazing out the window and muttering curses about the un-spring-like weather, so I read both. And while there’s plenty to make fun of in Taddeo’s piece (she writes sentences like “…her blond tresses cascading murderously across the tile like southern blood” – which is… No. Seriously, no. Though it might have worked without that last part about the blood, i.e., it might have worked if the editor were paying attention), there’s some to think about as well, because buried amongst Taddeo’s lulzy metaphors is kind of an important point:

Why is marriage still so important – particularly in urban, cosmopolitan America? Because a whole lot of people have fun destroying it as a concept. In fact, they have so much fun destroying it, that once it’s destroyed, they reanimate its corpse so they can quickly go to town on it again. And people who solve their own insecurity issues by challenging monogamous norms are doing it in such a way as to prop the entire institution up.

I don’t know if Taddeo is self-aware enough in her piece to understand that this is what she is effectively doing. She talks about sleeping with other people’s husbands and fiances because it places her “crudely, smilingly, on the side of the winners” – i.e., makes her feel powerful. She takes particular glee in zeroing in on the weaknesses of other people’s relationships – “every time I meet a married woman, I think about the things she does that likely annoy her husband” – because it places her in an advantageous position. It’s like engaging in long range combat from a comfortable hideout vs. going in for messy melee attacks, if I can be permitted my own lulzy metaphor for a second. It’s very, very easy to ridicule other people’s relationships, because it’s not as if you’re in them, taking damage.

Finally, Taddeo sets herself up as the hot chick who triumphs over the pathetic wives of the men she bangs – because she’s hotter and more profound and reads David Foster Wallace out loud by gleaming pools of water – which is important, because you have to examine how she gets her validation in this instance. A woman a guy risks his marriage for has to be hot by default – but only if marriage itself remains important, both as a general concept and to the guy in question. If you couldn’t give a crap about your wife finding out that you’re boning some other woman on the side – then you might as well just bone anyone! And Lisa Taddeo isn’t just anyone, dammit.

The entire premise of Taddeo’s article, the Truth about Why We Cheat, the sort of thing that Ordinary People probably Cannot Handle, has to do with a kind of languorous tug-o-war about different values we place on different things. Remove the conflict from it, and it ceases to be that interesting.

Having been the Other Woman who once upon a time wrote tedious essays about the drama and the hotness of it (I may still inflict some of them on the world if I ever write a memoir. But will make sure to get a better editor. My evil knows some bounds), I do wish that Taddeo has taken the time to self-examine a bit more, instead of merely going for a catchy turn of phrase. She talks about the death of her parents having possibly affected her, but doesn’t seem interested in the  how and why. Mostly she just revels in secret knowledge (i.e., I know I’m sleeping with your husband, bitch, and you don’t! Mwahaha!) and the fact that she is, at the very least, not the woman who’s in the kitchen alone, waiting for her husband to come back from God-knows-where, and imagining all sorts of unpleasant scenarios. It’s like being an assassin or a sorceress or something awesome like that.

If you’re afraid of losing the people you love – or loving anyone to begin with – you’re probably not going to want a relationship which is as simple and as scary as involving two people making some kind of commitment to one another, particularly if said commitment is public. If you’re afraid of growing older, grayer, saggier and increasingly sexually irrelevant – then you might, as Taddeo does, argue for “Wild Moments” in which you are the glamorous temptress, rather than a dowdy, trusting, familiar companion. If you already know, in your heart, that happiness ends – then it might as well end for everyone. You want to be the wrecking ball tearing through the house whose foundation is already rotted through. Wrecking balls don’t have feelings.

And in a nation where the media now presents images of people so flawless that they might as well be cyborgs, where mortality is rejected and acting your age, past a certain point, is seen as giving up – being a mistress or even the accidental “crumpet on the side” is probably a helluva lot more comforting than being in the thick of things. And because marriage is sacred, everyone, people all over the world, knows that you can’t just say, “I’m bored” or “I need a break” or “Something is seriously wrong here.” Well, not most of the time, anyway. Most people’s choices come down to suffering in silence or cheating on the sly.

Because I’ve been in Taddeo’s position, I can honestly say that nobody knowingly gets into such an arrangement, where you’re someone else’s secret, unless you have something to prove. I think a lot of pathologically nice people who seek approval actually crave this position from time to time – you can be the bad guy, without a whole lot of effort on your part. Knowing this, I’m actually pretty sympathetic to where Taddeo is coming from – or would be, if Taddeo took herself just a little less seriously in this piece. Once again, I get that her parents died – and I don’t know how much digging within herself a person in her position can handle. Maybe going before a national audience and laying out this stuff under the guise of “I’m going to tell you sheltered people the truth about infidelity” wasn’t such a good idea. Or maybe Taddeo just really couldn’t give a crap, dunno.

If you’re the neurotic writer sort – cheating is like living inside a novel! A bad one, maybe, but still. If you’re an Other Woman, for example, you might even run into the Man and his Official Woman in public – and then gleefully flirt with other men right then and there, only to raise your eyebrows imperiously when he confronts you about it later. “Darling,” you’ll say, imagining yourself to be Joan Crawford. “Don’t be so tediously hypocritical.” The plot will practically write itself! As someone who has lived through all that – and then ended up marrying one fine day, and having a baby on yet another fine day, I can safely say that yes, it’s the latter position that makes you more vulnerable. You have a lot more to lose. And you don’t have nearly as much time to write – let alone to condition your hair and stuff (Taddeo is all about the hair) – with a baby around.

But you make your choices in life – and you roll with them, for better or for worse. You take responsibility. You don’t blame everything on a Tom Waits song on the jukebox (for real?). Though there is comfort in knowing that someone with a reasonably crazy past has an easier time staying in and playing “Skyrim” with a baby sleeping and dreaming at their breast – or so I’ve discovered about myself, anyway. I’ve discovered I’m capable of more love than I thought I could handle – which. is. awesome.

And if you are going to go to that level of the game,  incidentally, you ought not cancel the crazy completely. I almost feel like that’s the real mistake so many couples make, and what Taddeo may essentially be writing about. I just wish she wasn’t so damn smug about it. If you’re writing about manhattans that “taste like the future,” you can’t afford to be smug.

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In Russia, it’s the election

March 4, 2012

Lyovka woke up early today – which was my excuse to set to work early and interview people. I’ve discovered that being a journalist/parent to an adorable, bug-eyed infant is highly convenient. People suddenly want to talk to you.

I spoke to an impoverished pensioner who said she voted for billionaire Prokhorov, and to a young law enforcement official who expressed solidarity with the Communists and Sergei Udaltsov, whom he referred to as a “righteous dude.” Those were the comments that really stood out for me. All of the people I know, including those who are voting for Vladimir Putin, are highly uncertain of the future. An old friend of mine who’s a Putin supporter told me that he’s being “realistic” about having Putin in office for the third term, and expressed disdain for the ruling United Russia party, which Putin is “ultimately too good for.” Strange times are upon us, either way you look at it.

My raging pharyngitis finally got the best of me, and I had to retreat homeward and call a doctor. A hot young doctor showed up and was horrified to discover that I was not in bed, but tending to Lyovka. “You need your rest!” He exclaimed dramatically. “You look like a corpse!”

Sigh. There was a time when hot guys didn’t say such things to me.

Snow is falling lightly on Novogireyevo now. My husband drove out to film polling stations in villages – and waved to me from a webcam. And proceeded to yell health advice from said webcam. The nanny has shown up, hearing I was in distress, and has taken Lyovka off my hands for a bit.

The lights are coming on in the khrushchyovkas. The world is changing. It’s just another day.

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An observation through the general haze

February 19, 2012

Director Anastasia Patlay took this picture of us at a party celebrating ten years since the creation of Moscow’s Teatr.doc (which is a whole separate story, when you think about it – the role that this theater has played in both of our lives is just weird to contemplate. Weird, but awesome as well. It’s a great place, and if you’re ever in Moscow, you have to go. It gets lambasted for being “too political,” because art in Russia must be “safe,” you see, and not make any bureaucrats nervous, but all of that is pretty silly.), and when I saw it, I noticed two things: we look happy, and we look like we’re about to die.

I like marriage and parenthood and work – and I just need a leeeeeetle bit of rest. OK? OK? Please? Well, FINE THEN. FINE.

(You’re probably going to say that exhausted new parents don’t go to parties. And I’ll tell you that you just haven’t been to Moscow. Maybe.)

"I love you." *yawn*

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The fun, seedy side of Moscow real estate

February 17, 2012

This is what happens when we have artificially inflated prices + no real regulation of the market.

I’m aware of the fact that I’m using the word “fun” rather loosely here.

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“Like a circus trip on mescaline”

February 14, 2012

That’s how I feel about the Moscow real estate market at the moment. And not just because of our personal issues – which are numerous, and involve my mother’s own contested property in the center of the city.

Meanwhile, our living arrangements are staying the same… for now… but there is a war between our new landlady, the daughter of the deceased elderly woman who was the owner of our flat, and the daughter’s father. Daughter says that dad is a violent alcoholic, and dad says that daughter is a scammer and he’ll be taking her to court.

I tend to take the daughter’s side – since her father had deliberately tried to cover up the fact that his wife had died. He wasn’t planning on telling us at all, even though she was the legal owner of the apartment. He just planned to keep quietly collecting the rent – even as our renting agreement would have become null and void.

Classy.

Anyway, I ought to have a big real estate story coming out on Friday. If you want to read more delicious real estate horror stories – you will love it. I promise.

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I regret to inform my readers

February 2, 2012

That crappy landlady has died.

I can’t say she was particularly nice to us – but she wasn’t an alcoholic or a thief either, and sometimes, that’s the best you can hope for.

Rest in peace.

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Have I told you guys that I became a sad playwright recently?

November 23, 2011

Because I totally did.

As did Slava and Natasha.

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